As a JET in Akita Prefecture, I can attest to the fact that the cold, long and dark winter can lead to cabin fever and possible frostbite from below average indoor temperatures. One of the saving graces for those of us who live in Northern Tohoku aside from kotatsu, is Winter Festivals! Even if you do not live in Japan, it is possible to enjoy these festivals from afar by looking at the amazing pictures of snow sculptures galore or reading about the unique histories of traditional winter events. I would like to take a minute to highlight some of Northern Japan’s most amazing and bizarre winter festivals.
Dates: February 7th to February 13th.
City: Sapporo City, Hokkaido Japan
I have been dying to see this festival for years. It is one of Japan’s largest winter events and about two million people come to Sapporo every year to see the gorgeous snow statues and ice sculptures that line the streets around Odori Park, the Community Dome at Tsudome and the main street in Susukino. This week long event features some of the most amazing snow creations on the planet, from the mind-blowingly gigantic to the spectacularly detailed. As the website for the festival says, Sapporo is turned into a “winter dreamland of crystal-like ice and white snow.” I finally have the opportunity to go to the Sapporo Snow Festival this year and I can’t wait! If you have a free minute to check out photo galleries of the festival, I definitely recommend it.
Dates:February 15th-16th
Place:Doro Koen Park in front of Yokote City Hall
City: Yokote City, Akita Prefecture
Kamakura are essentially small igloos made entirely of packed snow instead of blocks of ice. They consist of one small room that an adult would have to duck down into because of the height of the door. Often, benches are carved from snow on the inside of the kamakura and a small shrine lit by candles is constructed. This 400 year old traditional festival takes place in Yokote in southern Akita. During the festival, children sit in the kamakura and call out in Akita dialect to passers-by, inviting them in to have some sake, rice cakes, and sweets! It is definitely on my list of festivals to attend.
(Designated a National Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property)
When I first heard about this tradition, I thought someone was trying to pull one over on me. The Namahage festival takes place in Oga on the Oga peninsula in Akita prefecture around New Years. Young men dress up in demonic blue and red masks as well as traditional straw garments. They go through the village and burst into the houses of new community members often carrying large knives with them. In low terrifying voices, they say in Akita dialect, “Are there any bad children here?” and they search the house for young kids. They inevitably scare the children half to death. They are supposed to embody the demons that take bad children away and the only way they can be placated is by giving them sake to drink. As the night goes on the “demons” get increasingly more intoxicated and rowdy. Even though the festival is only at New Years, the Namahage can be seen performing traditional Japanese drumming known as Taiko in Oga throughout the winter months.
On the more bizarre side of winter festivities, is the Kandekko-Age Festival of Nakazato. In this fertility festival which is held every year on January 15th, a small plow made of magnolia wood, aka. a Kandekko, is tied to a wooden penis made of walnut wood and attached to a sacred straw festoon. This creation is then thrown at the sacred Japanese Judas tree while people wish for a good harvest, a successful marriage and household welfare. According to the Semboku City Sightseeing website, “The wish is said to be granted if the Kandekko is thrown right, and the successful Kandekkos, when taken off and hung on fruit trees such as chestnuts and persimmons, will make the tree give plenty of fruits.” I have yet to witness this spectacle but for an account from someone who has experienced it first hand I highly recommend this guide which has been posted on the Akita JET official webpage.
Here ends my highlights of the festivals of Northern Japan but there are many MANY more that have not introduced. Again, I encourage you to read this entertaining guide to get an idea of the variety and sheer amount of winter festivals that take place in the glorious Akita Prefecture. Some things to look forward to from the guide are hadaka matsuri aka naked matsuri in which men strip down and throw water on themselves outdoors wearing only a funkoshi or loin cloth. Another great festival is one in which one side of a town faces off against another and they battle with very long bamboo poles. There are a wealth of fascinating traditions and I hope you have happy hunting learning about the winter fun that Japan has to offer!
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This post has been submitted to the February Japan Blog Matsuri! It happens every month, so check it out!
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